Published By: Devyani

Step Aside Ballet Flats: French Derby Shoes Are Set to Take Over This Fall

Trade those minimalist flats for easy-going, elegant footwear that speaks fluent fashion with a Parisian accent.

If you’ve been loyal to your ballet flats all the while like a fashion lifeline, it might be time to let go. This September, there’s a new French wave on the block - the Derby shoe - and it’s tacitly marching its way into closets globally. Don't mistake it for another trend-for-trend’s-sake moment. There’s comfort, there’s narrative, and there’s the admirable masterclass in French finesse, down to every knot.

Let’s break the Derbies down.

(@chvrlesjr/Instagram)

From Ballet to Brogues: Why Derby Shoes Are the Next It-Style

Remember when ballet flats dominated our closets - stylish, pretty, but at times as sturdy as a paper napkin in the rain? After years of foot-tapping around in thin-skinned soles (and the fleeting reign of chunky platform sneakers), fashion’s demure ballerina has ushered in a new chapter with something a bit more artisanal. Here, we are introduced to the slim, nimble Derby: a lace-up shoe with adequate enough polish for the office and just the right edge for weekend soirées.

(@paulperkman/Instagram)

A Touch of French Cool, Courtesy of Serge Gainsbourg

Repetto hit the front pages in the 1970s with the “Zizi” jazz shoe long before Instagram influencers branded ballet flats with the #core hashtags. Want to know who is the biggest fan of Derby? - Its Serge Gainsbourg, whose bassline-leveled attitude with a polished lace matched the shoe’s supple leather and low profile. He roamed Paris in those laced-up wonders, underlining the fact that a Derby can be as moody as a verse without a chorus.

(@ladukosjoes/Instagram)

Runway Roundup: Why Designers Can’t Get Enough

Jacquemus × Repetto reimagined the Zizi as a square-toed Derby in butter-soft calfskin - in their spring/summer 2024 collection. Afterall, even avant-garde labels covet a dash of Studio 54 spirit.

(@esquiresg/Instagram)

Lemaire included Derbies into its minimalist edit, complementing them with subtly sculpted trousers for a “didn’t try, still made fashion flinch” vibe.

(@0305/Instagram)

At Celine, Michael Rider braided American prep and Parisian poise into his newly launched collection featuring streamlined tailoring, cropped chinos, and Celine lace-ups that cleave the distinction between prep school and post-punk.

(@wmag/Instagram)

Michael Rider at Celine : Runway models in Derbies

Why You’ll Actually Want to Walk in These

In contrast to the ballet flat’s feather-light sole, a good Derby provides sturdy support. With these hard-wearing leather outsoles, one can go on casual city sidewalk strolls. The softly cushioned insole helps with agility - you can run to the next coffee shop, and you won't feel a tinge of pain on your feet. These modish derbies align perfectly with jeans, dresses, or power suits.

(@dress4unot4them/Instagram)

How to Style Your Derby Come September

  • For a cafe cool meets campus classic look, pair your tan-hued derbies with pleated midi-skirt and an oversized button-down.
  • To unleash your inner bard in boots and bedhead, go for Gainsbourg-inspired black derbies, paired with slim dark denim, and a relaxed crewneck.
  • Wondering if you can recreate Audrey Hepburn’s “Funny Face”? Then, opt for glossy white derbies with cropped cigarette pants and a silk scarf.

This September, give your toes a final-blow lace-up by stepping into a Derby, and let your feet do the talking - whether you’re busy working notes at a cafe or strutting in style on the sidewalk.